Page 65 - Cityview May-June 2017
P. 65

shaved roulades of wild pig, venison, quail or pheasant spit-roasted over open mesquite fire. First courses standouts include the satisfying crunch of Lobster Hushpuppies with parsley-cilantro salad ($15), wild-but- not-gamey pheasant meatballs with soy-cured egg dip ($15), and irresistible Elk/Foie Gras sliders with blueberry jam ($14). In the second course, don’t miss the spicy bowl of Texas Red beef chili with avocado corn salsa, cheddar, crema and crispy tortilla ($10), or
fresh Acorn Squash soup with bacon, crème fraiche, and manchego ($10).
The dozen main courses change regularly, except for the signature Roasted Garlic-Stuffed Beef Tenderloin with salty, spicy, and crunchy Western Plaid Hash, grilled asparagus and Syrah demi-glace ($36 for 6 oz.; $42
for 9 oz.). Other steaks are available, cut by the ounce. The Rabbit Roulade with rabbit pork sausage, basil salad and black garlic ($36) is unique and tasty. The Duck Breast with duck foie gras sausage, corn puree, and pickled pear ($36) is subtle and savory. Elk Loin with Swiss chard, rare Hen
of the Woods, salsify, and candied blackberries ($39) echo the tastiness of the elk sliders.
Notable sides include Crispy Cauliflower in a truffle fondue ($10), and Beet Home Fries with goat cheese and lemon ($8).
The journey is relaxing and full of surprises. The dishes are presented artfully and with occasional touches like shaved Margarita ice atop an amuse bouche.
The celebrity vibe comes with celebrity prices. There’s no getting around that a full culinary journey at Lonesome Dove is pricey. If you want the experience, try having just a first and second course and a side. These are memorable offerings, and the servings are generous.
Brooks Clark, a writer for numerous national and regional magazines, is Cityview’s food critic. He is currently writing a soon-to-be-published biography of Sally L. Smith.
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