Page 48 - Cityview_Jan_Feb_2014

eat

DINING OUT
THE CITYVIEW RATING

ambiance:

Service:

food:

Presentation:

Price:

total: 18
(out of 25)

The Cityview Rating relects the totals of the ive
categories: Ambiance, Service, Food, Presentation,
and Price. (25: Out of this World; 20 to 25:
Excellent; 15 to 20: Very Good; 10 to 15: So-So;
5 to 10: Not Recommended; 0 to 5: Don’t Eat Here)

Photograph by bryan Starmer

Echo Bistro and Wine Bar

Understated elegance with neighborhood warmth.

E
cho bistro is a bearden from Patsy Cline to the Crew Cuts ver- this tender fish. It was topped with a

gem. from bustling Kingston Pike, sion of “Sh-boom.”
fresh fruit salsa. The composition with
park in the Shops at bearden and
one drawback to the front right area, the filet, which came with a rosemary

enter through a double set of glass doors where we sat, is that in colder months demi-glace, garlic potatoes, and pep-
into a world apart.
the tables can feel a little close to the pers, was pleasing, and the savory com-

The lighting strikes just the right front door, with the occasional draft and bination of aromas whet my appetite.
balance between pleasant ambiance sound of the door opening and closing.
The bass-filet duet special felt like a

and enough light to read the menu. The our waiter, oliver, explained the bargain at $34.95.
soothing latte-colored walls provide
specials thoroughly, clearly describing My dinner companion started with

a mood that is understated and warm. the dishes and sauces. In the spirit of a sea scallops served in a sweet hot chili
Co-owner Lisa Simmerman greets wine bar, he offered tastes of a featured sauce, rice, and light tortilla crisps.

every patron like a neighbor, adding an case. he was attentive but not suffocat- for her entŕe, she chose the lamb
intimate feeling.
ing, friendly but not overly familiar. chops. Two perfectly cooked loin

She and chef husband Seth have Each part of the meal came promptly chops arrived with a rich demi-glace,
five decades of fine dining experience but not in a rush. Lisa stopped by to ask and accompanied by steamed spinach,

between them, and it shows in many if we were enjoying our meal. At some asparagus, beets, butternut squash, and
small touches. Table settings are el- restaurants, this can feel intrusive, but bleu cheese grits. She described the

egant and immaculate, water is served at Echo it simply makes you feel part of combination as “somewhat muddled.”
with a surprising watermelon garnish, the family.
Again, the food and presentation were

dining chairs are comfortable, and the The chef’s special that evening was a adequate for the $26 price.
table spacing is just right.
combination of sea bass and filet duet. We shared the triple banana dessert

Echo’s 18 tables are divided among Choosing this, I opted for a lighter ap- (“banana banana banana”), which
several discreet sections, each one con- petizer, the classic iceberg wedge. The consisted of grilled banana nut bread

ducive to conversation—though given presentation was fresh and just dif- topped with vanilla bean ice cream,
the smallness of the whole restaurant, ferent enough: an iceberg wedge with saut́ed bananas, and a banana brown

slightly cramped. The bar area can
vine-ripened tomatoes, bleu cheese, sugar and butter sauce, all for a reason-
feel like either a local haunt or a quiet and bacon crumbles drizzled with bal- able $6.50. After trying this delicious

refuge. The back “L” area is perfect
samic vinegar and light olive oil.
dessert, you will never look at bananas
for small, intimate celebrations. Music The sea bass was the right tempera- foster the same way again.

played is eclectic and soothing, ranging
ture and texture; some places overcook

46 cityviewmag.com maRcH aPRiL 2014