Page 64 - Cityview_July_Aug_2015

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DINING OUT
THE CITYVIEW RATING
Ambiance: Service: Food: Presentation: Pr ice:
Total: (out of 25)
23.5
Club LeConte
Elegance and a renewed Old World tradition reign atop Plaza Tower
The Cityview Rating reflects the totals of the five categories: Ambiance, Service, Food, Presentation, and Price. (25: Out of this World; 20 to 25: Excellent; 15 to 20: Very Good; 10 to 15: So-So;
5 to 10: Not Recommended; 0 to 5: Don’t Eat Here)
Review by N. Brooks Clark Photograph by Bryan Starmer
800 South Gay Street, 37929 865-523-0405 www.clubcorp.com/Clubs/Club-LeConte
[Non-members can eat at Club LeConte by booking a private room for a special occasion or at opentable.com]
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb ($29.50), which goes well with risotto parmesan and asparagus. The chef’s personal recommendations include the Seared Roast Duck Breast ($34), served with roasted beets, creamy risotto and hibiscus syrup; and the Stuffed Porto- bello Mushroom, served with creamy parmesan risotto, balsamic reduction, and basil oil.
Among the desserts, the star of the show is Bananas Foster, prepared à table in the New Orleans manner of Bren- nan’s (where the dish was invented). The bananas are cooked in butter and banana liqueur, with brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, orange and lime juice, and Myers Dark Rum. The pan is set afire, and the delectable creation is then served atop vanilla ice cream.
The wine and seafood carts, hot towels, and the flaming Bananas Foster make the evening an active experience. The main dishes are presented with an emphasis on the featured sauces and garnishes.
Salads are $6 to $9. Starters are $10 to $12. The main dishes run from $25 to $44. Desserts are $7 to $9. In the realm of fine dining, Club LeConte is a fine value.
Enter the First Tennessee Plaza Tower elevator and press 27— and you’ll be forgiven if you feel that
you’ve walked on to the set of Mad Men. Ascend the stairs from the 27th to 28th floor, enter Club LeConte, and behold: a mahogany bar area and dining rooms in three directions. This is a place where deals are made.
Maître d’ Thomas Wilson, a 32-year veteran of the ClubCorp network of busi- ness-oriented private clubs, embraces the mystique. “What’s old is new again,” he says. “Our customers know we main- tain certain standards. We have a tradi- tion of service, and we believe there is always time for elegance.”
The sophisticated mien of the dining areas is complemented by breathtak-
ing views. To the west: Knoxville, Lake Loudoun, and the University of Tennes- see. To the south and east: ridges leading to the Smokies and Mount Mitchell. The panoramas are even more spectacular as darkness falls and the lights of the city are illuminated. Pianist Jim O’Connor evokes Bobby Short at the Carlyle Hotel with his selection of show tunes, big band, and contemporary classics.
Wilson and waiter John Miracle accomplish the elusive goal of “avail- able but not evident.” Knowing that Club LeConte diners take their wines seriously, the staff takes the time to present and discuss recommenda- tions. Hot towels precede the meal. An after-appetizer palate refresher of sweet strawberry sorbet enhances an appreciation of the main dishes.
Executive Chef Michael Gallostra and his culinary team create a leisurely dining experience. Appetizers such as Ahi Tuna Tacos ($12) and Shrimp and Avocado Stack ($13) are top-notch starters, and the innovative Seafood Cart, from which diners can be served small lobster claws, half-shelled crab legs, shrimp, and oys- ters, is a unique touch. The Three Cheese Onion Soup ($6.50) features a lusty broth and an excellent combination of cheeses, but the onions were not carmelized
and the baguette crouton too hard and difficult to chew—and so is not recom- mended for job interviews or first dates.
Member favorites include a savory Filet Oscar ($44.25), served with a jumbo crab, steamed asparagus, and bordelaise and hollandaise sauces; and
62 CITYVIEWMAG.COM JULY AUGUST 2015