A guide to finding peace in the waters of East Tennessee.
Story by John Quillen | Photography by Patrick Caveney & John Quillen
Appeared in Cityview Magazine, Vol. 42, Issue 4 (July/August 2026)
The drive out of Oak Ridge and up onto the Cumberland Plateau has a way of slowing me down — the road climbing, the trees closing in, the world getting quieter the deeper I go. Heading down Ridge Road, I pass the Lilypad Hopyard Brewery, and it brings a small smile to my face knowing I’ll be stopping at Del and Marte’s place on the way back out for a beverage or sandwich of choice. But first, I’m headed down to Lily Bridge.
This whole area — a beautiful spot below Lily Bridge in the Obed Wild and Scenic River area — is one of my favorites for a short day trip. Less than an hour from Knoxville, it’s the country’s narrowest national park, and it’s worth the drive. Cross over the bridge, head up to the parking area, and you can walk down to the boulders. For a climber like me, that’s always a treat: a little afternoon bouldering in the shade of the tall trees, and not much could be better. Or, if I’m not in the mood to climb, there’s the trail that runs out along the ridge, the canyon falling away on both sides, every turn opening onto another lovely vista.
And what could be better, after a climb or a hot hike, than a dip in the cool waters of Clear Creek? In my mind, not much. It’s not just my favorite, either — it’s one of publisher Nathan Sparks’ favorites as well. From the parking area at Lily Bridge it’s just a short walk down the trail, easily accessible for almost anyone. Pack a picnic lunch and you’ve got the perfect spot to spend an afternoon.
But Lily is far from the only spot around. In this article I’ve detailed some of my favorite places to take a cool dip in the Smoky Mountains come summertime — from urban quarries to quiet campgrounds, and places we all know and love, like the Y and the Sinks.
The days are getting longer and insects are emerging from their holes. No-see-ums compete with mosquitoes for my exposed skin, covered in sweat and chalk. Sometimes we walk the mile, other times drive. Driving means that our climbing packs can be secured in the vehicle. Tender feet wrestle with jagged limestone as we lower ourselves into the warm water. Climbing at Ijams has this benefit. Meads Quarry is the perfect balm after four or five rock routes.
I’ve been known to dip here in the wintertime. A couple of years ago we did a few polar plunges. None of us stayed in there very long, but it made for great shrinkage jokes. Summer afternoons see us floating and talking about our performance on the quarry walls.
The newly redesigned Fort Dickerson swimming hole is an engineering feat. A significant investment by the city has turned this into prime real estate for downtown summer plunges. The best way to appreciate this little alcove is by driving to the top entrance off Chapman Highway and riding your bicycle down the trails at the actual Fort, because you may not be able to find a parking space on the main entrance. A busy weekend recently saw almost no available space on the docks or middle swim platform.
But the crystal-clear water remains cool and deep. New amenities include bathrooms, changing areas and a concession stand. This is one thing the city has done right. But just don’t think about bringing your own boats; you’ll have to pay a private concessionaire for that privilege. Same thing with Ijams.
Sometimes you need to get out of the city to escape the rising heat. Raft guides on the Pigeon River have known about this honey hole for years. As far as clarity and purity, you won’t beat the tumbling cascades of Midnight Hole in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
Meads Quarry, a 25-acre lake, reaching depths of nearly 80 feet, draws swimmers, paddlers, climbers, and adventurers year-round.
From Big Creek Campground you’re going to walk about one mile uphill on the Big Creek Trail. This branch of the river is just downstream from Mouse Creek Falls. On a busy summer afternoon, it can be quite festive. And by the time you arrive you’re definitely ready to cool off. Climb up the rocks and plunge into that deep pool from the infamous rock diving board. Snorkeling is definitely encouraged.
There’s nothing secret about swimming at the Wye. Scantily clad people are found there almost year-round. This confluence at the entrance to the National Park at the top of Townsend signifies where the Little River waves goodbye to the Smokies. For locals it is a rite of passage to commit a lazy summer afternoon there or hop on a tube and drift down the river. But more adventurous people will go upstream to the similarly well-known Sinks.
I’ve always found that place to be a little bit more dangerous. Turbulent water can suck you down, and it’s been the demise of more than a few unfortunate bathers. Could be a personal bias, given my friendships with local rescue divers.
The same goes for Abrams Falls. Hike out to see it, but enjoy from a distance. I consider that particular spot to be a siren of the Smokies. A while back I wrote about Roger Murphy who, in his capacity as a rescue diver, used to retrieve people from underneath certain logs out there. I’m not saying I haven’t dipped my toes, but be careful with going any deeper than the knee.
The universe pulled me over past Asheville recently. My friend Tim Saltaklaraglu and his partner Gina Edwards had been goading me to check out Panthertown for quite some time. This pocket wilderness outside Brevard, North Carolina, is home to a lot of options — from backpacking to mountain biking to rock climbing. Take your pick.
Tim and Gina kept telling me about this pristine beach with white sand and a gorgeous waterfall. When we stepped out of the car, the temperature was in the 40s and looking not to get much warmer. After five or six backpacking miles, we found a suitable spot to camp. It got down into the 30s that night, so swimming seemed to be off the table.
When we finally reached that idyllic spot below Schoolhouse Falls, the warmth of the sun was feeling good on my neck, and given the temperature, the most I could handle was a full head dunk. But as the day warmed and we hiked on several additional miles, Tim managed to shed his layers and lower himself into a pool at the periphery of the wilderness area. Panthertown is definitely worth the drive.
We are blessed with so many natural bathing spots not far from downtown, and I’m thankful our leadership has seen fit to continue to protect and preserve them.
So I’m going to leave you now as I finish this story and my cold beer at Lilypad. Get out of the house and find your perfect outdoor swimming hole. Don’t forget to bring the beer — I’ll be waiting. ◆
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