Chef John Bryant was born in Johnson City and trained at Johnson and Wales University in Charleston, South Carolina. He ran a catering business in Johnson City for eight years then joined Bistro by the Tracks two years ago. He is committed to local sourcing from farms within 150 miles of Knoxville. “When we grew up, everything came out of the garden.”
The walls of the former site of the Orangery and Kitchen 919 are decorated with vintage portraits gathered in estate sales. Most are from the 19th century; some appear even older. Though none are identified, the staff, when asked, produce fanciful tales of who each visage might be. “We take the liberty of making up stories,” laughs General Manager Will Oakes.
Executive Chef John Bryant introduced the appetizer, hand-rolled potato gnocchi: “We serve it with all kinds of spring vegetables—spring onion, wild mushroom, asparagus—and basil purée on the plate with Grana Padano and preserved Meyer lemons.” The gnocchi was paired with a 2022 Emilion Moro Polverete from Bierzo, Spain, described by the vintner as “a juicy white, with a ripe mix of poached pear, pineapple, apricot and mandarin orange fruit flavors enlivened by tangy acidity and accented by hints of ground ginger, honeysuckle and lemon thyme.”
The entrée was a wood-grilled spring lamb loin served with spring peas, basil, Carolina Gold Rice Grits, and “Red Eye” gravy, paired with a 2022 Foris Vineyards Pinot Noir from the Rogue Valley in Oregon. “It’s the best expression of pinot,” said Oakes. “It’s got an earthiness to it, strong enough to hold up to your lamb loin.”
Between courses, East Tennessee Children’s Hospital Pediatric Neurosurgeon Gentry Savage thanked the diners for helping the hospital meet the costs of running its operations. “There is no way we could do it without your support,” she told attendees.
For dessert, Bryant presented diners with, what he referred to as “an old, old, old school South Carolina strawberry shortcake on an Appalachian sweet biscuit, with Chantilly cream, and basil fluid gel. It’s all about what we put into the biscuit: butter and buttermilk. It’s a recipe from my wife April’s great grandmother from up on Spider Mountain in Unicoi County in Northeast Tennessee.”
This final dish was complemented by a 2022 Chateau Laribotte Sauternes from Bourdeaux, France, crafted from a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes and delivering an enticing aroma of honey, apricot, dried fruits, delicate floral notes, and a touch of vanilla. It was the perfect combination to end the night.
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