Finding time for my sons on the South Holston River brings back memories of a simpler time with just as good company
We are just below the small weir dam on the South Holston River outside Bristol. Waiting for the water to come on gives me time to share some stories with my sons, Ethan and Troupe. It’s the first time we have been together in a bit, and we are anxious to see what our float will bring to the boat. South Holston is said to have more than 10,000 fish per mile, but don’t let that fool you into thinking you will catch fish every cast. No, these fish are wary, and proper presentation is required to succeed. Troupe takes the front position as he is fly fishing, and Ethan is in the rear with a spinning rig. The alarm sounds, and it is only a few minutes until the water arrives. We are off.
The South Holston is a small, relatively fast-flowing river in the upper section. The water is beautifully clear, and the fish are rising. A chance to have both of my sons in the same boat and get the opportunity to guide them gives me a satisfying feeling. It’s nice as a father to share some of your knowledge with your children. Summertime flows on the Holston can be frequent. Today, we’re only going to get about three hours on the river, but that’s better than nothing. We float along and bring a few fish to the boat, but the true joy of this trip arrives as I watch the gentle fog swirl over the cool water and my sons calmly take in the view in front of us. My view as a father is just as breathtaking.
I am reminded of the many days my father and I floated this section of the Holston River system. Our first trip down in an old fiberglass square stern canoe resulted in an unexpected upset at the Hickory Tree rapids. The average temperature of the Holston is around 40 degrees. Somehow, despite the frigid temperature, my father managed to get me, the canoe, and our gear to the bank.
That unfortunate episode did not deter him from canoeing, however. Quite the opposite. Aside from being an accomplished electrical engineer and a very present father, he took canoeing classes, became an accomplished whitewater racer, competed many times in the National Championships for whitewater slalom, and spent years as a part-time whitewater canoeing instructor at a local college. For much of that, I was at his side, and he welcomed my participation.
I’ve taken much of this with me as I became a father–and now grandfather. Remembering all of this is a continual reminder of how important it is to spend time with your children and invite them to pursue your passions alongside you.
On this trip, we will be staying at the Tailwaters Lodge. The lodge is located on TVA South Road, just below the dam. It’s a delightful collection of several houses, ranging from a modern rustic escape to a full-on several hundred-year log cabin. It’s got something for everyone, and the prices are very reasonable. The lodges are owned by Bruce and Paula Cote and managed by Nicole Cardish. They’re not native to the area but you wouldn’t know by talking with them. They seem to fit right in. I asked why they chose Tennessee and they said simply that East Tennessee seemed like a gentler New Hampshire, where they grew up.
On our first night, we stayed in the Osprey cabin built by Bruce and Paula. A lovely two-bedroom right on the back of the river. We enjoyed building a fire on the back deck in the stone fireplace and listening to the river gently flowing. The next night, we moved to the Pheasant Tail. This cute, quaint log cabin can sleep up to seven people with two full baths and a laundry—plus, it’s a one-minute walk to the river. Each cabin has it’s own unique fire pit, some more rugged than others but all exceptionally relaxing, where we sat each evening and played cards.
The lodge has more than 500 feet of river frontage, which abuts TVA land, providing more than a mile of wadable world-class fly fishing right outside your door. Most fishermen opt for float trips utilizing the South Holston and the Watauga rivers. You can bring your boat or work with a local guide service. Tailwaters Lodge partners with the South Holston River Company, headed by Patrick Fulkrod. They have lots of guides and are on both rivers every day. I would also recommend Jimmy Cheers, based out of Mountain Sports Ltd in Bristol. Either is a solid choice for a great day on the tailwaters.
Most people probably think of the speedway when they think of Bristol, but there is an abundance of outdoor experiences waiting for you to explore. As my dad used to say on our canoe trips together, “Any day on the river is a good day on the river.” I’d like to add, that if you have the opportunity to bring along the next generation or a good friend, that good day will undoubtedly become something unforgettable.