The Marlowe’s sophisticated vibe lives up to its Raymond Chandler-esque name.
The night was as thick as a conman’s promise, and the streetlights of Knoxville’s Central Street flickered like the last gasps of a dying star. We found ourselves standing before The Marlowe, a joint at 1123 North Central Street, the kind of place where the clink of glasses and murmur of low conversations promised a temporary escape from the city’s hard edges.
Walking through the arched doorway, we were greeted by an atmosphere that was both cozy and elegant, a delicate balance that many aim for but few achieve. The lighting was soft, casting gentle shadows that danced on the open-brick walls. A jazz trio played mellow riffs. And the hum of conversation was lively but not overpowering. It’s a place where secrets can be shared, exotic trips planned, and a private eye might come up with important leads.
Though the name Marlowe is the middle name of owner Randy Burleson’s daughter, Aubrey Jaye Marlowe Burleson, it nonetheless evokes Raymond Chandler’s unforgettable prose and his hardboiled detective Philip Marlowe, forever enshrined in film-noir annals by Humphrey Bogart in The Big Sleep.
Sliding into a booth that felt as inviting as an old friend’s embrace, we were handed a menu that spoke of exquisite and creative options: seafood, steaks, and pastas, each dish described with a flair that suggested the kitchen knew its business.
Chef Robert McDonald III is a local guy. He started cooking on his parents’ back deck gas grill. He was an actor at Central High and played Marryin’ Sam in L’il Abner his senior year. He went to the American Academy of Dramatic Arts in New York and at one point moved to Los Angeles looking for his big break. As Raymond Chandler might have written, the big breaks don’t come when you’re looking for them: they bite you on the nose when you’re not. McDonald’s culinary success has been aided by the theatrical sensibility he brings not only to the presentation of his culinary creations and his tutelage of sous chefs Jon Nash and Bryce Cobble, but also to The Marlowe’s interior design.
In the space formerly occupied by Bistro by the Tracks Happy Holler, a short-but-lively bar dominates one room. The dining room features exposed floor joists on the ceiling, comfortable black banquets along two walls, a picture window onto the passing parade of Central Street, and a glass wall giving a full view of the kitchen.
We started with a cocktail, something the place was reputed to do well. The drinks arrived, masterpieces in a glass, the kind of concoctions that could make a bishop kick a hole in a stained-glass window. It was clear that the bartender was an artist, and we were more than willing to be his canvas. I had the house Fall Fashion, a brooding beauty of Basil Hayden bourbon, Grand Marnier, Amaretto and Luxardo cherry, the kind of drink that made you want to sit back and contemplate life. My companion opted for the Muse Martini, a sharp but smooth blend of Matchbook distilling gin and Kamoizumi Umeshu sake, served very cold with just the right amount of bite.
We began with the Mushroom Gnocchi appetizer—filet bites, roasted chestnut mushrooms from Extraterrestrial Fungi in Powell, mushroom demi-glace, truffle oil, and cured egg yolk. “Very much ‘us,’ and my favorite,” said McDonald. We quickly understood why. With gnocchi, the texture tells the tale: these are delicate and savory.
We moved on to a seasonal Burrata with black garlic hummus, roasted root vegetables, olives, chili crunch, and pita bread. To get the just-right consistency, McDonald roasts the garlic for 12 days. It was creamy and indulgent, the hummus adding a depth of flavor that lingered long after the bite was gone.
Then came the best salad we’d tasted in a while, a Citrus Greek Salad. This light and crisp dish weds greens with onions, fennel oil, olives, red peppers, artichoke hearts, fried capers, and goat cheese, all dressed with a Greek olive purée and charred lemon vinaigrette. “It’s my favorite salad I’ve ever made,” said McDonald, and we weren’t about to argue. For the main courses, we tasted the Grilled Chicken, a dish that can often be as uninspired as a Monday morning, but here it was anything but. The chicken was succulent, each bite a testament to culinary skill, and the accompanying sides of mushrooms, olives, garlic Béchamel and red chili coulis complemented it like a well-matched pair of gloves.
The Half Duck is a crisp confit duck quarter and grilled duck breast, both cold-brined for two days and served with grilled asparagus, safflower pilaf, and cherry bordelaise. The skin had a delicate crunch while the meat beneath was tender and rich.
The Crab Cakes are a “runaway success,” according to General Manager Laura Shackelford. They were golden, crisp, packed with crab and served with jalapeño grits, charred ginger carrots, and a balsamic ginger vinaigrette that cut through the richness just enough.
Beef Tenderloin was a classic presentation accompanied by grilled asparagus and a delightful addition of confit beet—earthy, sweet, and the perfect foil for the deep umami of the beef.
Sides are no afterthought here. Charred ginger carrots arrive with just the right amount of sweetness, and Burgundy mushrooms are a complement to main dishes like the Weekend Ribeye. Every element on the plate had been considered, perfected, and delivered without pretense.
Dessert was a must, though we were nearly too full to consider it. We opted for the Espresso Cheesecake, light and airy, with a Biscoff crust that added a delicate crunch, topped with coffee whipped cream. The Chocolate Torte, with its classic flavors of hazelnut and orange, perfectly contrasted a glass of Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream, poured over a large Fresh press coffee ice cube.
Service was prompt, the staff moving with a grace that suggested they were part of the establishment’s foundation. They were attentive without being intrusive, friendly without being familiar in a delicate dance that they performed with aplomb.
As the evening wore on, we couldn’t help but notice the clientele. A mix of locals and out-of-towners, all drawn to this hidden gem in Knoxville’s crown. The Marlowe had the feeling of a place that had been around forever yet still managed to surprise even the most jaded of patrons. In the end, The Marlowe is more than just a restaurant; it’s a refuge from the mundane, a place where the food is excellent, the drinks are creative, and the service is as warm as a summer’s day. It’s the kind of place Phillip Marlowe himself might have frequented, seeking solace from the city’s relentless grind. And like any good detective, once you’ve discovered it, you’ll keep coming back, knowing that in a world full of uncertainties, The Marlowe is a sure thing.
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